Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is working hard for our customers and clients to provide them with the best quality construction services available in the Northern Virginia area. As the leading contractor in the area we make it our job to provide the best residential and commercial construction and remodeling services. Our company is qualified to do everything, from kitchen, baths, roofs, siding, windows replacements, fire and water restoration. As the spring season arrives many home owners will be looking to do some remodeling to their homes and businesses. We at Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology will be here to assist our Northern Virginia family with whatever they may need help with. We’ve been in business many years and we’ve never had a company beat us as far as pricing and craftsmanship.
Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is in the business of treating its customers with the highest respect. That’s why our company has made customer service our number one priority. Our customers never have to worry about our company getting over on them, because we always want our customers to come back and do business with us. Many of the local remodeling companies and contractors are really just in the business of one thing, and that’s make a quick dollar. Our company is in the business of making an honest living and treating our customers right. We believe in building relationships with our customers, and that’s why most of our business has come from word of mouth.
Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology deals with only qualified contractors and remodeling companies that are license and insured to do the work for our clients.We do everything from roofing, siding, windows replacements, bathroom and kitchen remodeling. From our engineers to our laborers, all our contractors are qualified to do any kind of remodeling work our customers may have. We only deal with contractors that provide superior construction materials, because we only want to do the work once and right on the first try. All our contractors are have over 15 years experience on the average and love what they do as a profession.
Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology also specialize in insurance and claims. If you’ve experience storm and wind damage, we can help you get started. As the start of storm season gets started we’re bracing ourselves for the rains and hurricane seasons that are going to come in the summer seasons. Many home owners experience ripped off shingles and siding, our company offers free inspections at no cost to you or your insurance company. We’re into doing only honest business and making sure our customer is happy with the work that our contractors have provided them.
When a hailstorm hits the Northern Virginia area, the first concern is usually what damage, if any, occurred to the sheet metal and glass on your car, truck or SUV. However, hailstones can also do real damage to your roof. In fact, hail is one of the most common causes of property damage to vehicles and homes. For example, Nationwide Insurance estimates that hailstorms cost its policyholders $2.4 billion in 2014 alone.
Hailstorm Potential in Ashburn Virginia
Roofing hail damage is a very real threat in Montgomery County and throughout the state. Violent thunderstorms generate very large hailstones in Maryland. On June 24, 2015, the Washington Postpublished a photo of a spiked hailstone approximately four inches in diameter.
And, they get even bigger than that. A Maryland hailstone measuring 4.5 inches in diameter fell in 2002. In 2010, an eight-inch hailstonefell in South Dakota that weighed almost two pounds. Very large hailstones have been known to crash right through roofs.
However, hail of even modest size can strike with enough force to cause damage that may lead to future leaks or premature roof deterioration. There are three key reasons for this. First, hail falls from miles up in the sky at speeds that may exceed 100 mph. Second, hailstones are often spiked and irregularly shaped, and this can increase the damage done at impact. Third, a heavy hailstorm creates a cumulative effect as hundreds of hailstones pummel a roof. Although roof repairs due to hail damage are often modest, insurers have authorized full roof replacements in some cases.
When hail strikes your property, what should you look for?
Visible hail damage often consists of circular black marks on shingles or new splits in cedar shakes.
Shingle roofs – Hail strikes are often black, because the impact has dislodged the protective granules, exposing the underlying shingle material. Hail strikes often leave spots that are soft to the touch – these spits are best identified by a qualified roof inspector.
Shake roofs – Hail strikes can split cedar shakes, sometimes leaving tell-tale pock marks along the splits. Inside the split, newly exposed wood is usually orange to brown in color. New splits are also distinguished by their sharp corners and edges.
Flashing, vents and other roof components may suffer damage as well, impeding water flow and/or compromising the roof system’s integrity.
The amount of damage that hail will cause is dependent on a number of variables.
Size and density of hailstones
Wind speed and direction
Age of various roof components
Position of barriers to inclement weather
Aging shingles and shakes are often more prone to hail damage, so the age and condition of your roof may come into play. Also, your roof might be more vulnerable to hail driven by winds from one direction rather than another. Finally, some portions of your roof protected by large trees or nearby structures will sustain less damage.
Preparing for a Homeowner’s Insurance Claim
When you suspect roofing hail damage, it is often helpful to take photos of hailstones next to a ruler, to show their size. When possible, photograph property damage of all kinds, to provide evidence of a storm’s severity. Consult your homeowner’s policy to become familiar with storm damage coverage, deductibles and how to file a claim.
A proper roof inspection by a qualified roofing contractor identifies both visible and hidden damage. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is one of relatively few contractors that has achieved GAF’s Master certified Contractor status. To facilitate the claims process, we will work closely with your claims adjuster. Our inspector will gladly meet with the adjuster on the premises.
If a storm has brought high winds, heavy rain and/or hail to your property, don’t hesitate to have potential damage quickly identified and dealt with. Please contact us today, and we’ll promptly send a qualified inspector out to your home at a time that fits your schedule.SCHEDULE YOUR FREE ROOF INSPECTION TODAY
Weather in the Northern Virginia area can be so unpredictable, and turbulent weather—especially hail—can damage shingles. Roofing contractors should explain to homeowners how hail can affect shingles and what they should watch out for. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology makes that our priority to educate our clients and customers.
A manufacturer’s warranty typically will not cover damage to your roof caused by hail, however you should review the details of the warranty covering your shingles in order to determine whether any such coverage is available. Here are some answers to common questions regarding hail damage.
Is damage immediately noticeable? Not always. Hail impact may cause latent damage that can, over time, result in premature aging of the shingles. Without obvious visual damage, there is no real way to be sure how much, if any, damage shingles have encountered. Latent damage caused by hail or severe weather may not be apparent until months or years later and may cause the shingles to age prematurely.
How can I tell if the roof was damaged? Generally, damage can be seen as indentations and/or fractures on the shingle’s surface. Hailstones vary in size, shape, and hardness and can create a random pattern of dents or depressions. If this is not evident, look for indentations on metal flashings, siding, chimney caps, or even skylight flashings. After some time, clusters of granules may come off (at the point of impact) in a random pattern and expose the asphalt.
What are the most common types of damage?
Granule loss at points of impact, which may be accompanied by surface depression. Loss of mineral granules as an immediate or gradual consequence of storm damage can lead to the asphalt coating being directly exposed to the elements. This may lead to accelerated aging of the shingle. Therefore, granule loss is NOT just cosmetic damage, and “sugaring” — the process of adding loose granules to damaged shingles with asphalt cement — is not a permanent solution.
Cracks in the granule-asphalt surfacing, which may radiate outward from points of impact. Cracks may be present especially if high winds blew the shingles back.
Exposed fiberglass mat, where hail shattered the granule-asphalt surfacing causing it to break away from the fiberglass mat.
Fractured fiberglass mat, which may or may not be immediately visible. A fractured mat may result in tears radiating out from the points of impact. Furthermore, hidden damage to the mat may later develop into cracks and tears in time as the shingles age.
Loosening of the self-seal strip. This damage may or may not be immediately visible and may weaken the seal integrity, creating the possibility of future shingle blow-off.
Can several individual shingles be replaced or should the entire roof be replaced?
While it is possible to replace individual storm-damaged shingles, latent damage to the surrounding shingles caused by a storm can be difficult to assess. Because of the potential for the surrounding shingles to also have experienced storm damage, complete roof replacement is sometimes recommended for the long-term performance of these roofs. If the damage is confined to one plane of the roof, replacement of just the damaged roof plane may be possible. If individual shingles are being replaced, any nails that were removed from surrounding shingles must be replaced and the surrounding shingles must be resealed by hand for the best results.
Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is the leading hail storm damage company in the Loudoun and Fairfax area. Our company is in the business of helping people and we’re here for you when you need help. Call us for a free inspection but if you need help while you’re on our website here’s some tips. When a hail storm hits your property, it can cause roof hail damage or the covering of your building(s) as well as other property.
Vehicles left outside, aluminum siding, asphalt shingles, and the gutters along the roof can all be negatively affected by hail.
First, you should know your enemy. Hail is a form of precipitation that forms during thunderstorms when upward air currents or updrafts bring raindrops into the higher-level clouds, where the temperatures are below freezing.
This causes tiny particles of ice to gather around items in the air like ice crystals, specs of dust, frozen raindrops, or any other tiny nuclei that might be floating through the air up there.
The ice particles then drop back below where the temperatures are above freezing, picking up more moisture from the rain and water vapor, growing in size. Then the nascent hailstone gets caught in another updraft, freezing again.
The more powerful the updrafts and storm winds, the longer the hailstones circulate back and forth until gravity does its job and they drop to the ground, causing damage to rooftops, vehicles, and anything else in their path.
Any type of hail can potentially cause damage to your property, but it is typically thought that 1-inch or larger stones have a greater negative impact on single layer roofing systems, while roofs with multiple layers of shingles may face greater problems from smaller hailstones since they usually have a softer support area underneath the top layer, allowing the tiny stones to penetrate the surface.
The High Costs of Hail Storms and Roofing Hail Damage
If you don’t worry about hail storms in the same that you worry about more spectacular natural disasters like tornadoes or hurricanes, you should know that hail storms are more common – and costly – than you may think.
According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), the United States experienced over 4,000 hail storms in 2018.
And what’s more, if you live in a state like Colorado – sometimes referred as “Hail Alley” that has suffered three of the most expensive eight hail storms during the past three years resulting in over 100,000 roofing hail damage insurance claims, then you need to be especially prepared to recognize the potential damage to your property and how to fix it.
But note that Colorado is hardly alone – nearly every U.S. state has experienced significant hail storms; in fact, Texas actually had more hail damage insurance claims regarding hail damage during any previous year.
Overall, hail storms are a fairly regular happening in many parts of the United States. In 2017, there were over 6,045 recorded hailstorms, and we’re on track to receive approximately the same number or more in 2018 with nearly 4,000 reported instances of hail so far this year.
All of these facts and stats make it clear that you’ll need to be particularly knowledgeable about what your insurance policies and what they cover in the event of a hail storm or similar major weather event; not every policy covers hail damage on roof and if you live somewhere where that damage could be significant, than you need to thoroughly research your insurance options and of course, ask your public adjuster if you have any questions about your coverage and what you need if you live in a region prone to hail storms.
What Happens When You Experience Roof Hail Damage
Hail storms can cause a wide range of damage to your roof and your property in general; even seemingly minor hail storms can cause significant problems that you might not notice until the damage increases over time and creates leaks that may be harder to repair or even require a replacement roof.
While your first concern during a hail storm might be protecting your family or employees, your property, and any vehicles that you have outside (which is definitely a valid thing to worry about), immediately after the storm is over and things are secure, you should also consider the state of your roof.
This includes how to inspect it for damage and make any potential minor repairs or efforts to protect the damaged spots until you can get estimates from a roofing contractor – or multiple contractors so you can compare costs – so your insurance can see that you attempted to mitigate future damage until the roof can be repaired or replaced.
Being without power, having hail damage siding and rooftops, and associated water damage or flooding can cause additional damage long after the storm is over – and that ongoing damage can affect your roof insurance claim if you don’t take immediate steps to mitigate it.
If you’re recently experienced a significant disaster like a hailstorm, you should take the following steps to check out your roof and determine if you need to make any repairs or hire a contractor to do so for you. When hail hits your home or commercial property, and the amount of damage can vary greatly.
Here are some of the factors that can cause damage during a hail storm:
The Factors That Cause Hail Damage
Wind Damage. The speed, intensity, and direction of the wind during a hail storm can vary greatly, which can affect the severity and location of the hailstones.
Size of the Hailstones. The size of individual hailstones will impact the degree of damage, and keep in mind that hailstones can be as small as a pea or as large as your softball, or anything in between.
Density and Shape of the Hailstones. Some hailstones can be denser than others, depending on the atmospheric conditions in which they are formed. They also tend to not have smooth edges, which affects the level of destruction that can cause damage to your roof, your siding, gutters, and other aspects of your property.
Type of Building Materials Used. Every type of building material will absorb and respond the impact of hailstones differently; for instance, hail can crack vinyl siding and cedar wood shake roofing, or cause dings or dents in asphalt shingles, gutters, or aluminum siding.Particularly large hailstones can even be strong and dense enough to puncture a roof, particularly if it is older or weaker – the age and condition of the roof will affect the degree of damage that a hailstorm may cause.
Physical Barriers to the Hail. From natural barriers like tree cover or other landscaping to neighboring structures like fences, adjacent buildings, or other structures, the barriers located around your property and the roof may protect against the impact from a hail storm.
Now that you know what factors can cause hail damage to your roof and your property in general, you need to identify the actual weak spots and problems.
How Do You Inspect Your Roof for Hail Damage?
There are a number of ways to inspect your roof for leaks in general and hail damage in particular.
Keep in mind that the most important thing is safety first! If you’re planning on going up on your roof yourself, make sure that you have a good pair of soft-soled shoes or even get some roofing boots, make sure that your ladder is in ideal working condition (and get a buddy or co-worker to hold on to the bottom for you as you are climbing up and down), and bring your camera and some chalk to mark the spots you think are damaged.
If you’re really tech-savvy and love your gadgets, or have a friend who does, you can use a drone to assess your roof for hail damage. That will allow you to take pictures and videos from angles that you couldn’t normally see from climbing up on the roof yourself, which can be dangerous in general, but especially if you don’t have a building repair or construction background.
Of course, keep any local regulations about flying drones in mind and only fly a drone in clear weather.
Start Inspecting Your Roof for Hail Damage from the Ground Up
You can start things out on the ground, by looking for dents in the gutters, gutter screens, or downspouts.
While problems in these areas as a result of a hail storm is not always the case, chances are that if there is hail damage to the top of the roof, there will be some impact to the gutters.
Keep an eye out for even small impact areas, since that will help you predict the health of the top portion of your roof.
Next, look for hail damage to your siding and the window sills and window casings, along with any other exposed metal surfaces such as the metal fascia on the roof eaves.
Any dents, dings, or other signs of hail impact – even minor ones – may be a sign there is more damage up above; also, remember that hail storms generally involve high winds so hail is nearly as likely to hit the side of the building as it is the top.
Then inspect other outdoor elements of your property. Items like air conditioners often experience some damage during a hail storm. In addition, a damaged air conditioner may qualify for replacement under your insurance policy – and it’s good to fix it early before you’re looking at air conditioner failure during the hot days of summer.
You should also inspect any exposed vents, sheds, patio covers, porches, mailboxes, and decks or other painted wood surfaces, and note that insurance may cover these damages.
Chipped or scratched paint beyond the normal wear and tear may be another sign of hail damage. Look for torn screens on windows and doors, dents in metal doors (usually garage doors), and hail damage on your vehicles and other cars or trucks nearby.
Other things to check out include damage to outdoor furniture, swing sets or play sets, debris and damage to outdoor swimming pools or fallen tree limbs around the neighborhood, and damage to plants, grass, bushes, or flowerbeds (particularly if some of your foliage looks shredded).
Hail spatter on the driveway is another indicator of hail damage to the rest of the property, including the roof. These spatter marks are lighter spots on the driveway, sidewalks, parking lots, or other concrete surfaces, and they occur because the impact of hailstones can remove dirt, dust, algae, grime, or other small bits of debris from these surfaces, essentially exfoliating them in spots.
Finally, check out the surrounding neighborhood for roofing contractor signs on the lawns – if your neighbors are getting their roofs inspected or repaired, chances are that you need to need check out your roof as well.
What Does Roof Hail Damage Look Like?
After you’ve inspected things on the ground, next it’s time to get up on the roof and check out the shingles as well as the vents, chimneys, chimney covers, skylights, and any other features.
One quick tip – if you’re having trouble spotting potential damage on harder or more reflective metal surfaces, chalk will come in handy – just run your chalk sideways over the surface and the potential hail damage will show up more clearly. It’s a little easier to spot the damage on rougher spots like shingles.
In the event of a major natural catastrophe like a hail storm, you probably already know that you need to check out your roof for possible damage and leaks.
Moreover, if you’ve noticed some of the more minor signs of roof leaks that may be related to hail damage then you need to examine things further and determine the next steps regarding your potential roof leak and repairs, and possibly call in the experts for help.
There are certain signs you should look out for if you think that you’ve experienced hail damage to your roof or your property in general. We’ll describe the signs below for the various common types of roofing systems below.
Inspecting Your Shingles for Hail Damage
Finally, you’ll want to inspect the shingles. If you have a shingled roof, then it is damage to the shingles that is the most important part of your hail damage roof insurance claim and extensive hail damage is what earns you coverage for a roof replacement or major repairs.
It’s important to understand that various types of shingles can react differently when hit by hail.
Hail damage to asphalt or composition shingles need to be reviewed and inspected dissimilar ways as compared to wood shingles or other types of roofing surfaces, for one example.
Here’s how to review some common different types of building materials and discover possible hail damage to your property:
Hail Damage to Asphalt and Composition Shingles. If you are looking for hail damage on these types of materials, you should be trying to find random damage with no clear pattern, black or extremely dark dings or dents that are soft and feel similar to bruised fruit, missing granules that may even expose the felt or roof membrane, or asphalt or roof mat that appears to be shiny.
Hail Damage to Wood Shingles. If you have wood shingles or wood or cedar shakes, you should also be looking for random damage with no particular rhyme or reason, splits in the shingles that are brown or orange in hue and have sharp colors or edges with little to no deterioration.
There will likely be impact marks, dents, or other damage along the splits like the roof hail damage picture below. Large hailstones can even crack through these types of materials instantly.
Concrete, Clay, Metal, And Other Dense Materials. These and similar types of roofing materials can also be cracked instantly during a hail storm.
Determining if the shingles on your roof have been damaged during a hail storm can be really obvious, but it can also require the trained eye of an experienced inspector and a simple hailstone damage roof inspection.
Major damage is usually pretty apparent – the surface granules are loose or gone, and there may be a developing hole in the roof.
However, if even just a few granules are gone, you should still be concerned because greater issues may develop down the road.
Why Minor Hail Damage Can Affect the Long-Term Health of Your Roof
It takes a strong impact to knock the granules or other surface materials off a shingle, they are extremely sturdy.
You might ask, what does hail damage look like on a roof?
If even a few granules are knocked off the rooftop, that means the integrity of the shingles might be compromised, which means a water leak might develop over time.
You may think that what’s the big deal if a few granules come loose?? There’s not a hole in the roof!
Again, you may be surprised at the sheer amount of force it takes knock the surface materials off of a shingle. And larger hailstones fall at the rate of one hundred miles or more hour – now that’s a serious impact!
When missing or impaired surface materials are found, then the integrity of the shingles has been compromised, and a water leak can develop over time as water pools in the weak spots during rainstorms and other weather events – even if everything seems fine at the moment.
In the longer term, curled shingles may be indicative of hail damage, along with algae and moss growth where water may be leaking in or pooling in the cracks caused by hailstones.
Even the smallest hail impact on a shingle can lead to a roof leak or other significant future problems that compromise the long-term value and safety of your roof, especially if you experience another storm or significant weather event before having the roof inspected and repaired if need be.
Therefore, even if you don’t think your shingled roof has experienced serious damage from a hail storm, it is worthwhile to get it inspected, especially if you notice other areas or properties close to yours.
That’s one of the reasons why it’s important to check your whole area or neighborhood, even if everything seems fine with your individual roof.
Hail Damage to Other Types of Roofing Systems
Shingles might be the trickiest type of roof to assess for hail damage; but metal, clay, and slate roofing can also be difficult.
Clay and slate roofs will usually have cracks or gouges when the stones hit, while metal roofing will show dents from the impact of the hailstones. Particularly soft roofing systems may experience punctures from larger hailstones.
Be aware that while dents and dings will be more readily apparent on softer metal surfaces, you can use chalk to uncover damage on harder metal roofing surfaces or metal features like chimney vents – just run your chalk sideways over the surface and the potential hail damage will show up more clearly.
Finding Evidence of Roofing Hail Damage Inside Your Home
Not everything related to hail damage is on the outside – there are a variety of things that you may notice inside your home that might not appear to be related at first.
If you notice things like new water stains on the ceiling or interior walls, discolored walls, water stains in or around light fixtures, water stains in closets, mold or mildew on the walls, water seepage in the attic, wet insulation, or similar issues, then you need to check out the roof as well.
This goes doubly important if you begin to notice these things soon after a major hailstorm or heavy storm.
Other Types of Roofing System Problems That You May Mistake for Hail Damage
Keep in mind that there are many other types of damage or issues with your roofing system that are easy to mistake for hail damage.
Things like exposure to inclement weather (minus the hail) or intense sunlight causes shingles to become brittle and may lead to an aged or weathered experience.
Blistering, cracking, granule loss, flaking, and mold or algae – depending on your local environment – can all be confused with hail damage.
These types of damage are normal wear and tear to the roof, but they may be confused with hail damage if you’ve recently experienced a hail storm.
What’s more, manufacturing defects and other imperfections may have occurred during the installation process.
Always have a professional inspect your roof if you have any questions, and contact your public adjuster if you believe you have sustained damage from a hail storm or other weather event.
Note that the cause of the damage may affect your insurance claim so it’s important to understand the source of the issues with your roof before you make a claim.
What to Do If You Discover Hail Damage on Your Roof and Shingles
If you’ve inspected your roof and found damage to the shingles, the membrane, or any other part of your roofing system, then the next step is to inspect the roof yourself or call a contractor or inspector to help you out (or both).
Know that the severity of the hail damage to your roof depends on a wide range of factors, including the type of roofing materials, the slope of the roof, the age of the roof, and the quality of construction.
The level of damage and therefore the potential insurance claim also depends on the velocity of the hail, the angle of its fall, the hail size, hail density, and hail shape.
The amount of hail damage to your roof may also be related to the number of shingle layers, if you’re dealing with a shingled roof.
The second, softer layer of shingles is more prone to damage since the underlying surface is less supportive than the denser wood on the top.
Learn Whether the Hail Damage is Functional or Cosmetic
Hail damage can be described as either functional or cosmetic; functional damage is hail damage that affects the overall integrity and potential longevity of the roof and shingles, and perhaps the capability to even use or inhabit the property safely.
On the other hand, cosmetic hail damage may not be pretty, but it doesn’t affect the functionality or long-term health of the roof.
It is essential to determine what type of damage your issues are classified as, since the American Association of Insurance Services introduced a “Cosmetic Damage Exclusion” which paves the way for insurance companies to avoid paying out claims for mere cosmetic damage.
That said, if your roof is actually functionally damaged the insurance company and their inspectors may attempt to claim that it is only cosmetically damaged in order to avoid coverage.
This is why you need your own public adjuster and their team of roof inspectors, contractors, and other professionals to make sure that you get the payout you deserve.
When to Call in a Professional Contractor for Your Hail Damaged Roof?
If you aren’t sure if your roof needs repair work or you aren’t comfortable performing the repairs yourself, that’s when it’s time to call in a professional contractor and talk to your public adjuster about getting it covered.
You may also want to consider your insurance coverage and how the policy is worded regarding fixes that you may perform yourself as an amateur versus repairs done by an official professional.
Know that a professional contractor will have their own liability insurance in case anything goes wrong as well, so errors you make may be harder to get covered or more complicated to fix in the future.
And if you have any questions about the process of fixing your damaged roof after a hail storm or other weather event, you should call your public adjuster – they are your best advocate and can help you navigate the tricky areas of not only dealing with a hail damaged roof, but help to ensure that the repairs or replacement roof and any associated damage is covered by insurance if and when applicable.
How to Prepare for Filing a Hail Damage Insurance Claim for Your Roof
If you suspect that your roof has sustained damage from a hail storm, the first thing you need to do is inspect the roof for dents, dings, split shingles, and any leaks, and cover any damaged areas with a tarp or similar waterproof material to show the insurance company that you made initial efforts to mitigate the damage.
Take pictures and videos of everything you find, and hopefully you have previous documentation of the state of your property before the hail storm.
As any public adjuster will advise, you should be regularly documenting the state of your property so you can provide evidence of the state of your property including your vehicles and any other outdoor assets prior to a disaster and compare the before and after images for your claim.
It’ll make it easier for everyone involved to assess the extent of the damage and make it more difficult for your insurance company to claim that damage previously existed prior to the hail storm or other disaster.
The Next Steps Towards Filing A Hail Damage Insurance Claim for Your Roof
Get estimates if it is determined that repairs or even a complete replacement is needed. Know that many insurance companies will require a certain amount or rate of hail damage; for example, 8 plus “hits” or damage spots on the roof with a 10-foot by 10-foot square area on at least three separate spots on the roof in order to cover the costs of a new roof.
If you are inspecting your own roof to start with, you should use some chalk to mark each damaged spot so the actual inspector or contractors you are working with can find them, and take pictures or video as well.
These images will be especially helpful for your public adjuster.
Note that your safety is paramount and you should never start making these small repairs or climbing up on your roof until the hail storm is over and you’ve ensured that the area is secure.
If you’re not sure, you should wait and contact your public adjuster and they’ll help you find professionals who are familiar with hail damage and other issues that can occur after hail storms.
Of course, the type of payout you can get varies by the type of roof, your insurance policy, and the extent of the damage in each spot.
This type of knowledge and assistance is where your public adjuster can be particularly valuable. They can help decide whether there is enough damage to make a hail damage claim on your roof.
Also, be on the lookout for storm chasers or contractors that show up immediately after a major hail storm or other event looking to help property owners repair their roofs, siding, and other property.
While many of them may be legitimate and just trying to get some business, you should never make repairs without getting a proper estimate and speaking to your public adjuster about the associated hail damage insurance claim.
Know that you don’t always have to accept the first estimate from your contractor or the first offer from your insurance company – and your public adjuster can help you figure everything out.
What Should You Do After Filing A Hail Damage Roof Insurance Claim
After working with your public adjuster to file a claim, you’ll want to contact some experience contractors to give you estimates for repairs or a possible replacement roof.
They will help you find experienced ones who can give you estimates for repairs and help to determine how much work needs to be done, or whether the roof needs to be completely replaced.
The contractors and your public adjuster will also help develop a timeline for repairs so you know how long it’ll be before you can fully use your property again.
Your adjuster will also work out a timeline for potential payouts so you can figure out your finances accordingly; also keep in mind that you may be able to recoup some interim costs if your home or commercial property is uninhabitable for a period of time (generally in the case of a complete roof replacement).
How A Public Adjuster Can Help If You Have Roof Hail Damage
If you’re read this far, then you know that if you’re dealing with hail damage to roof, then one of the first things that you should do is inspect the roof (or have it inspected) and locate the damaged spots and assess the extent of the damage.
Then inspect your insurance policy and call your public adjuster to find contractors, get estimates, and plan the next steps. Again, if you are not comfortable with clamoring around on your rooftop or in your attic, then you can call in professional contractors and inspectors.
Concerned about paying for the repairs or how to bill your insurance company or contractors? That’s when you should call your public adjuster.
They are there to be your advocate and they are always on your side with your best interests in mind, as opposed to the insurance company which is seeking to pay out the least amount possible. Hail storms and the resulting damage to your property can be extremely stressful – but your public adjuster is here to help.
The Northern Virginia region recently experienced massive storm damage, these storm including hail and wind damage. If you were one of these home owners, we’ll be glad to give our Loudoun and Fairfax residential and commercial clients the best tips possible. As a homeowner, you rarely can predict when your home will be hit by damaging weather. It is important to have a clear understanding of the proper steps that should be taken when the roof of your home has been damaged. Windstorms, severe rainstorms, and snow/ice storms can all cause damage to a shingle roof.
1. Assess the damage to your roof. The first step after you experience severe weather is to assess the damage. Approximate damage assessments can help you discuss your needs with your insurance company or contractor and avoid unforeseen costs or discrepancies. (This is usually only possible in daylight, so in some cases you may want to skip to step #2 listed below before assessing the damage.)
When looking at your roof to identify damaged areas, use a pair of binoculars. Estimate the general square foot area and specific details of the area that has been damaged. Note the severity of the damage, and look carefully to see if there are areas of missing shingles. In some cases, only a few random shingles will be missing.
Document the materials that are visible or exposed. Check for signs of exposed plywood, tarpaper, or the ends of missing shingles. Take note of the colour of the material and the approximate shade. (Additional shingles from a roof replacement project in the past will have the shingle colour stamped on the end of the package.)
2. Make temporary fixes to minimize property damage. If the roof is severely damaged in an area directly above a living space, interior property can be damaged by leaking water. Be sure to place a bucket or garbage can under leaks and remove any valuables in the area in order to prevent further interior damage. Serious damage may need to be waterproofed quickly using a strapped tarping method or ice and water membrane, while smaller repairs can be shingled immediately.
3. Contact your insurance company. Contact your insurance company. Evaluate if the damage is large enough to be covered through home insurance, or whether it would be more economical to hire a contractor directly for any necessary repairs. In times of natural disaster, when large residential areas are hit by a storm or other severe weather, it can be beneficial to use your homeowner’s insurance as contractors can become busy.
4. If necessary, contact a reliable contractor to repair the roof. If you decide to hire a private contractor, always hire a professional certified roofing contractor. Avoid contractors who are in the area because of a natural disaster. Traveling contractors who follow storms have no reputation to uphold and may provide sub standard workmanship. Click here to learn more about how to hire a properly qualified roofing contractor.
Are you in the Loudoun or Fairfax area wondering if you got a good roofing contractor? Well Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology got tips for you in order for you to choose the right roofing contractor. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology wants to make sure that you choose the right contractor every time and that you get the best price for your money. The biggest obstacle homeowners face when looking to fix or replace their roof is choosing the right person to do the job. After a damaging storm, they need to quickly get back to normal and perform the necessary roofing repairs. But that doesn’t mean they should just choose the first contractor who knocks on their door. Finding a contractor who is trustworthy, honest, and professional may sound difficult – but that’s where you come in. Contractors should share these 10 important tips with homeowners to show them that your company is reputable and can be trusted to protect their home and their wallet.
Get local referrals. There is less chance of potential issues or scams when you choose a contractor from your community. They are more familiar with local rules and code regulations and have a relationship with area crews and suppliers.
Look for manufacturer designations. Manufacturer designations are considered a badge of honor because the contractor must pass certain minimum requirements to be factory-certified (although, some manufacturers have more stringent requirements than others). GAF strictly enforces their top designation by only allowing 2% of roofing contractors per market to be recognized as Master Elite® Contractors. (Unlike other manufacturer designations, Master Elite®Contractors cannot use this top designation in another territory, only in the location of the storm. Find a local contractor near you.
Research Better Business Bureau (BBB) ratings. Some contractors blow in (no pun intended) right after a storm looking for work, so it’s important to look them up on the BBB website and make sure they have a good score. Stay away from contractors who do not exist on BBB.org.local contractors are required to maintain satisfactory ratings with the BBB in order to retain their certification.
Get an extensive warranty. Not all contractors can offer manufacturer warranties that include coverage of the contractor’s workmanship. If a contractor installs the roof incorrectly, it may take months or years for the damage to show up—and insurance won’t pay for it. If the contractor won’t fix it (or worse, has gone out of business), your only recourse is to pay for their mistake yourself. A Master Elite® Contractor can offer one of the longest workmanship warranties on the market—the Golden Pledge® Warranty.
Be concerned about safety. A contractor without a training or safety program may not be the best person for your job. GAF sponsors a unique national training organization called the Center for the Advancement of Roofing Excellence (CARE), which has trained more than 200,000 professionals. GAF is the only roofing manufacturer with a dedicated team of trainers in the industry.
Check for proper licensing and insurance. The contractor should have insurance for all employees and subcontractors and be able to provide a copy of their insurance certificate for validation. Not having adequate insurance could potentially lead to litigation between a contractor and homeowner if a roofing employee sustains an injury at the home. Most states require licensing for contractors, but that does not stop unlicensed contractors from attempting to do the roofing work. In states where licenses are required, make sure your contractor provides you with a copy of their license and confirm their status online. GAF Master Elite® Contractors must hold appropriate levels of Workers Compensation, at least $1 million worth of General Liability coverage, and have proper state licensing where they are performing the work.
Pay your deductible. Any contractor who claims they can handle the repair without having the homeowner pay their insurance deductible is committing insurance fraud and endangering the homeowner. The insurance deductible is the responsibility of the insured, and the contractor should reflect that in the quote without inflating the estimate to cover all or part of the deductible.
Handle your own claim. A contractor who says they are “a claim specialist” or can “handle your insurance claim” may be breaking the law. In most states, it is illegal for contractors to act on behalf of the homeowner when negotiating an insurance claim. Any contractor who opens the door to potential legal action is not acting in your best interest.
Don’t give in to pressure. Watch out for a contractor who pressures you to sign a contract before the insurance company has estimated the damage. Some contractors say they can work with whatever your insurance company settles upon, however the homeowner needs to ensure it’s not just any amount, but the right amount. The contractor should thoroughly examine the home and check that their insurance adjuster didn’t miss any damages.
Know your material choices. A contractor who does not offer you different shingle options is not looking out for your best interest. The style and color of the shingles you install can affect the resale value of your home. If the insurance company is paying for a new roof, it may be the perfect time to make a change and upgrade to a more unique style that suits your taste. GAF contractors can offer extensive design and color choices for your home. Check out the choicesnow so you’re ready. Knowledge is power.
Here at Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology we are always giving away free tips on how to do it yourself. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology, is the best remodeling company in the Northern Virginia area.You are renovating because you want your house to look more beautiful and feel more comfortable. Consider your home renovation plan as a business plan or as your special project you are starting from scratch.
If you hire an architecture he plan for you, but if you want to save money the first step is to take charge of the project and do it to yourself. In this article we are sharing some DIY ideas on, how to renovate your house on budget?
The key to renovating your house on budget yet beautifully is primarily to plan the entire process effectively. The following sections will demonstrate how you can divide your entire renovation plans into sub-plans, according to the space you have and renovate your home effectively. If you are looking to find out top 10 ways to renovate your house beautifully yet economically then read below:
Divide and Conquer
As mentioned earlier effective planning is the key to effective renovation. If you are renovating yourself then you need to focus on both the bigger picture and the smaller parts. You might have heard the phrase “whole is greater than the sum of its parts”, you can apply the same strategy to your home renovation project and devise a renovation plan for each area in your house. If you hire an architect for renovation, he will assess your requirements and then renovate accordingly. In this case since you’re in charge, you will brainstorm your requirements, write your end goal for each space in the house and decide the overall goal, and then move on to:
Since you want to renovate your house economically it is important for you to decide the total expenditure requirements/limit. It is important to remember in budgeting that you cannot overestimate your budget, keep your budget underestimated and then move on to researching for things you need.
You will be surprised at the number of options you have once you start your research. The beautiful lamp that you liked at a high end store can be purchased at a lower price from elsewhere as well. So, when renovating your house on budget please remember that if you research to find the furniture you like, paint you want or the decorations you would like in your house, you are likely to find most of the supplies at an inexpensive price. Take advantage of online shopping, thrift stores and second hand furniture shops and see how far you will go. For step by step instructions on how you can decorate your house beautifully yet economically please read below:
The first impression of your house is your door. If you are unable to change the door completely and if your existing door is in a good condition then you should repaint your door. Your doors could also affect the lighting of your room, and you could benefit from this great technique interior designed Amy Lau uses, “When dealing with a dark room, whatever color is used on the walls, I paint the ceiling, trim, and doors the same color but 50 percent lighter. Too much of one shade can overpower a space.” So, when renovating on a budget if you are repainting your door try to use different shades according to the concentration of light in your house to optimize the lighting of your house the way you want to.
Paint Affects Lighting
As mentioned earlier painting affects lighting and when renovating your house you might opt for a new paint. In that case if you are already on a budget purchasing different colored pallets might seem counterintuitive. If you are on a tight budget then opt for a black and white palette, it will give your house a modern sophisticated look and you will have the guarantee that you can never go wrong with white or black.
Small Rooms don’t have to Look Small
If you are renovating to make a small house look bigger than an inexpensive and beautiful way of achieving that goal is to use mirrors. It’s an inexpensive technique but it’s used by one of the most famous architects of his time, Sir John Soane, who used mirrors in the breakfast room of his London house.
Kitchens and Storage
If you are decorating/renovating your house then you are probably trying to de-clutter and maximize your storage as well. Utilizing your kitchen to its maximum capacity can help you minimize your storage problems. In order to do this on a low budget you can either DIY kitchen cabinets or storages from recycled material at your house, or take advantage of thrift shops in your area.
No one knows your kitchen space better than you do and your storage needs building DIY storage kitchen cabinets will not only help you save money and reuse old materials at your house but it will also ensure that you’re building exactly what you need. If you already have cabinets which are enough for storage then you don’t need to replace them you can just repaint them to make your kitchen look as good as new.
Light Comes through the Windows
According to Marc Appleton, “half the experience of living indoors is seeing the outdoors” So when remodeling your house install large windows. However, you might not have the budget to change your windows in that case play around with paint and paint your windows a shade lighter than the rest of the room to maximize the light coming through the windows.
You would be surprised at the number of inexpensive yet quality products you can purchase to renovate your bathroom. If you are looking to install new toilet fixture you can check our Toto Toilet, and if you are not planning to install any new items, you can fix up your existing toilet by changing the paint, changing cabinet paints and by fixing the pressure of shower etc.
If you are on a budget then floor renovation might seem expensive, and if you cannot find a flooring installation under your budget then you should invest in renovating everything else according to your floor design.
The key to renovating or redecorating your house beautifully yet inexpensively is to devise a goal for yourself, and paint an entire picture of what you want and then step by step renovate each part of your house like mentioned above.
Do you plan on building a roof yourself? Well that’s you’re business, but when it comes roofing ,its hard work. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology doesn’t recommend it because there’s no hiding from the elements. You can’t be afraid of heights and you need to be pretty fit. Before committing to this how to roof a house project, try this: Get out a ladder and climb up onto your roof. If you can’t walk around on it comfortably, hire a pro. If you passed this first test, go to the lumberyard or home center and throw a bundle of shingles onto your shoulder. Imagine yourself carrying that load up a ladder…many, many times.
If you’re still feeling positive about this how to roof a house at this point, why not give it a shot? You can skip a lot of heavy lifting by having your roofing supplier hoist the shingles onto the roof. Be sure you spread the load evenly across the length of the roof’s peak. However, don’t have the shingles delivered to the roof if you have two layers of old shingles yet to tear off—it could be too much weight for your trusses.
After you’ve obtained a permit (if needed) and safely stripped the roof clean, nail drip edge flashing flush along the eave.
Windblown heavy rain and/or snow can force water up and under even properly installed shingles. Even worse are ice dams (frozen water/snow that builds up on roof edges), which can wreak havoc by allowing water to seep up under lower shingles and then drip into your house. To guard against such seepage, apply self-adhesive waterproof underlayment (“ice barrier”), which adheres tightly to bare roof sheathing and seals around nails driven through it. Buy it at roofing supply companies or home centers. In severe climate regions, most building codes require applying it 3 to 6 ft. up from the eave (minimum of 2 ft. past the exterior wall). Call your building inspector for local details.
Cover the rest of the roof with No. 15 asphalt-saturated felt underlayment (some codes may require No. 30). Each layer overlaps the lower one by at least 2 in. Follow this step by nailing drip edge along rakes (sides of roof), on top of the underlayment. As you did with the flashing, always lap upper pieces over lower pieces. The felt keeps the roof deck dry before shingles go on, protects against wind-driven rain as shingles fail and increases fire resistance.
Next, find the center of the roof at the top and the eave, then snap a vertical chalk line. Most pros use this line to begin shingling, working left and right toward the rakes. Shingle manufacturers may recommend starting at the left rake edge, so check package recommendations.
For the first row of shingles, called a starter course or strip, you cut the tabs off three-tab shingles and apply them with the self-sealing adhesive strip facing up along the eave. Make sure this row has a slight overhang (1/4 to 3/8 in.) beyond the drip edge. The starter course protects the roof by filling in the spaces under the cutouts and joints of the next row (first course) of shingles. The adhesive on the starter course seals the tabs of the first full course.
Finally, nail the first course of shingles directly on top of and flush with the starter course. Use four roofing nails per shingle, as indicated on package instructions (six nails in high-wind areas). Once this course is laid, you can begin snapping horizontal chalk lines up the roof to ensure straight rows. Make sure to expose 5 in. of the shingle tabs where the bottom edge of the tab meets the top of the cutout.
Tear off the old
It’s impossible to properly install new flashing and underlayment if you don’t tear off the old roof beforehand. When tearing off the existing shingles, be sure to remove all the old nails or pound them flat. Protruding nails will tear holes in your new shingles. If you have movable items near your house and you’re worried they might get damaged, relocate them. Invest in a few large tarps to protect your plants and landscaping and to catch the thousands of nails that will rain down off the roof. It can be downright impossible to remove old self-stick ice-and-water underlayment, but it’s OK if you have to leave it in place. And if at all possible, have the rented trash bin parked close to the house so you can toss in the old shingles right from the roof. For more information, see How to Tear Off Roof Shingles.
Install the drip edge
Metal drip edge isn’t usually required (check with a local building official), but it gives roof edges a nice finished look, prevents shingles from curling over the edge, and keeps water from running directly down your fascia boards.
Before you install the underlayment, fasten the drip edge that covers the fascia on the eaves. The whole length of the fascia is probably not perfectly straight, so don’t snap a line; just hold the drip edge snug against the fascia and fasten it through the top into the decking with roofing nails. Nail it every couple of feet.
Install the drip edge on the gable ends of the roof after you finish installing your underlayment. Start at the bottom side of the gable, and overlap the sections of drip edge a few inches as you work your way up the roof (see Figure A). Use a tin snips to cut the drip edge to size.
When it comes to roofs, even the best safety equipment is no substitute for common sense and good judgment. Here are some tips for working safely on a roof:
Leave steep and/or high roof work to the pros. No amount of money you could save is worth the risk of death or a lifelong disability from a fall.
A fall protection kit (harness, rope and hook) only costs about $100 at home centers.
Wet roofs are slippery. Wear shoes with soft rubber soles for extra traction.
Keep the roof swept clean of dirt and debris.
Everyone on the ground should wear a hard hat—even the most careful worker can drop a tool off the roof.
Always look and call out before tossing anything down.
Carefully position ropes and extension cords so they’re not underfoot.
Check the weight rating on your ladder—it needs to hold you plus 80 lbs.
Extend the top of the ladder at least 3 ft. above the roof edge so you’ll have something to hang on to as you step onto and off the roof.
Never step on any of the ladder rungs above the roof.
Set up scaffolding to install the drip edge and first few courses.
When an ice dam forms on a roof (usually caused by poor attic insulation/ ventilation), ice and water can work their way up under the shingles and leak back into the house. Also, strong winds can blow rainwater under shingles. Self-stick roofing underlayment (often called “ice-and- water” underlayment) can prevent this because it sticks to the roof decking to seal out water. It also seals around nails, which keeps water from leaking through nail holes.
Rolls of self-stick underlayment have a plastic backing so the material won’t stick to itself. The backing is separated down the middle. Line up the lower edge of the roll with the outside of the drip edge. Peel back part of the uppermost backing on the roll, and nail the top corner of the underlayment to the decking. Start pulling the roll across the decking using the backing, making sure the material is lying as flat and as straight as possible as you pull.
You’ll be able to roll out long sections at a time if you have a low-pitched roof, but the underlayment may slip off the eaves on steeper roofs, so roll out no more than 10 ft. there (Photo 1). It’s important to make sure all your underlayment lies flat before you fasten it to the decking. Ripples and lumps can telegraph through the shingles and may be noticeable from the ground.
On warm days, self-stick underlayment will stick to clean decking without any fasteners. Fasten it to the roof with staples or nails on colder days, but only fasten the top part of the underlayment until you go back and peel off the bottom half of the plastic backing (Photo 2). The higher the temperature outside, the stickier the adhesive on the rolls gets. This ice-and-water underlayment is tricky to work with on super-hot days; keep that in mind when you plan your project.
Many severe climate areas require self-stick underlayment to be installed at least 2 ft. in from exterior walls. This means you’ll need two rows if you have 2-ft. eaves. Any two sections of underlayment on the same row should overlap a minimum of 6 in., and each course should cover at least 2 in. of the one below it (Photo 3). These rules can vary, so always consult your local building official.
Cover the roof above the underlayment with roofing felt paper. To start each course, drive a dozen staples grouped close together. Then unroll the felt and straighten out the row before you add more staples.
Place staples no more than 12 in. apart. Paper with too few staples will tear out under your feet and could cause a fall.
Run the felt paper over the peak and overlap it onto the other side. Do the same when you reach the peak from the other side of the roof.
Felt paper, also called tar paper or builder’s paper, helps shed water that gets under the shingles, protects the asphalt shingles from the resins in the wood decking, increases a roof’s fire rating and helps keep your house dry if it rains during the job. Most roofing suppliers carry 15-lb. and 30-lb. rolls of felt. For most applications, 15-lb. felt works just fine. Install 30-lb. felt if you plan to leave the paper exposed for more than a couple of days because it wrinkles less then 15-lb. And 30-lb. felt doesn’t tear as easily, so it’s safer to walk on when you’re working on steeper pitches.
Start a row by rolling out a short section of paper and securing it with a dozen staples grouped together near the center of the paper (Photo 4). That way you’ll then be able to roll out a long section and swing it back and forth until your overlap is even. Each row of paper should overlap the one below it at least 2 in. There will be overlap lines printed on the paper to guide you. Overlap seams on the same row 6 in.
Practice on a couple of 10-ft. sections until you get the hang of it, and don’t roll out a 25-ft. section of paper on a steep roof or when it’s windy. If you’re fastening the paper with a staple hammer, try to get a staple in every square foot of the paper (Photo 5). That may seem like a lot, but insufficiently stapled paper can tear out under your feet, which could result in a fall. Don’t walk on any paper that isn’t completely stapled down. Fasten the felt with cap staples/nails if you’re working on a windy day or are working on a roof with a pitch steeper than 6/12.
When you reach the top of the roof, run your last row long (Photo 6), and drape the paper over the peak (top ridge) onto the other side. When you reach the top on the other side of the roof, run that paper up and over as well. That way you’ll end up with a watertight ridge. Your local building official may want to come out to inspect your roof at this point, but sometimes you can get by with snapping a few photos. Ask about the inspection schedule when you pick up your permit.
Photo 7: Flash the valleys
Install self-stick underlayment under the metal flashing. If you need more than one flashing in your valley, lay them both in place and make sure they’re straight before nailing them down.
Roof valleys channel a lot of water, so they need extra protection. Start by installing self-stick underlayment on the decking. This process is much easier with two people. Cut the underlayment to size (or in sections for long valleys), and peel off the entire plastic backer. With a person on each end, fold the underlayment in on itself, sticky side out. Then lay it into the valley and unfold it. Try to push it down into the crease of the valley as tightly as possible. If this self-stick ice-and- water underlayment bridges both sides of the decking, leaving a gap underneath, it could tear once you install the metal valley flashing. Run the underlayment past the drip edge at the eaves, and trim off the extra with a utility knife. Once it’s smooth, nail it down on the outside edges.
Finish installing felt paper on the rest of the roof, overlapping the self-stick underlayment. Be careful when you trim back the felt paper so you don’t slice into the underlayment. Photo 7 shows the underlayment covering the felt on one edge a couple of inches. This will keep water farther away from the inside corner of the fascia. You can extend the center out even more but not so far that water overshoots your gutters if you have them.
Be careful not to nail your shingles any closer than 8 in. from the center of the valley. Once all the shingles are installed, snap lines as guides to trim them off. There should be 6 in. of the valley exposed on top (3 in. on each side), and each side of the valley should widen 1/8 in. for every linear foot of the valley run. So, if you have a valley run of 16 ft., your valley exposure would be 6 in. on the top and 10 in. on the bottom.
Another way of dealing with valleys is to use the “weave” method, which we don’t cover in this story. The shingles are woven together from both sides of the valley. The benefit of a woven valley is that it doesn’t leave an exposed flashing, which results in a cleaner look. The downfall is that leaves and twigs don’t get washed away as easily, which can cause little water dams. This is especially true for roofs with low pitches.
Avoid Extreme Temperatures
Avoid roofing your house in below-freezing temperatures. The shingles won’t stick together, which makes them prone to wind damage. A couple of cold days won’t cause trouble, but after weeks and months, the adhesive strips on the shingles can attract dust and fail to seal even when the weather does warm up. And try to avoid working on sunny days when the temperature is above 90 degrees. The ice-and-water underlayment gets overly sticky and difficult to work with, and the shingles get soft and are easily scuffed by feet and tools.
Install starter shingles
Run the row of starter shingles 1/2 in. past the drip edge. Position them so the adhesive strip is toward the bottom and facing up. Place nails 2 to 3 in. up from the bottom of the eave.
Water can get in the seams between any two shingles, but that’s OK because shingles overlap and the seams are staggered. But if you don’t use starter shingles, water will run in between the seams on the first row and right onto the underlayment, increasing the odds of a leak. The starter row shingles are only half as wide as a full shingle. If they were full size, the top half of the first row would have three layers of shingles instead of the two the rest of the roof has, causing a visible hump.
Don’t bother snapping lines for the starter shingles; just overlap them 3/4 in. past the drip edge. Fasten them down with five nails about 2 to 3 in. up from the bottom of the eave. Position the starter shingles so the adhesive strip is toward the bottom and facing up (Photo 9). The adhesive strip bonds to the shingle above it, creating a nice tight seal, reducing the chance of wind damage and water infiltration.
Some pro roofers install starter shingles on the gable ends as well. It’s not usually required, but it provides a cleaner look. Hang gable-end starter shingles 1/2 in. past the rip edge, and make sure you overlap the starter shingle on the eave by 2 to 3 in.
Rent or Buy?
Unless your roof is tiny, you’re going to want to get your hands on a pneumatic roofing nailer. Prices range from $100 to $300. Renting one costs about $35 a day or $90 a week, so if you own a compressor, you might as well buy rather than rent. A compressor rents for about the same as the nailer. If you don’t own a compressor and know you’re going to finish your house in less than a week, then renting is probably the way to go.
If you do buy a roofing nailer and you know you’ll only use it for one job, a cheaper model will work just fine. It just won’t be as durable as the high-end models the pros use. But don’t tell anyone you bought it. If the word spreads that you’re a roofing gun owner, you run the risk of being recruited by a whole bunch of friends and neighbors to help work on their roofs.
Nail on shingles
Following the manufacturer’s nailing instructions is critical; improper nailing is the biggest cause of roof failures in storms. Where and how often you nail your shingles will depend on wind speeds in your area and the pitch of your roof.
Laying shingles isn’t easy, but it’s probably the simplest part of roofing a house. Line up the bottom of the first row of shingles with the bottom edge of the starter row, making sure the seams are staggered. With that row complete, you’ll need to figure out the reveal (the portion of the shingle that isn’t covered by the one above it). Standard reveals vary between 5 and 6-1/2 in. Whatever the reveal is supposed to be, snap a horizontal line that distance from the top of the first row of shingles (see Figure A, above).
Your roofing gun should have an adjustable guide to help keep the rows straight. If it doesn’t, cut a block of wood the same size as your reveal and use that as a gauge. Slightly wavy rows won’t be noticeable from the ground, so only snap lines every several rows to straighten things out. It’s easier to work from right to left if you’re right-handed. Stagger each row so the seams don’t line up. Follow the stagger pattern recommended by the manufacturer of your shingles. Use partial shingles to start subsequent rows.
No one will notice if the last rows are not the same size on both sides of the ridge, but it can be very noticeable if the row that meets the ridge has a 4-in. reveal on one side and a 1-in. reveal on the other. Once you get within 8 ft. of the ridge, measure down to your shingles at each end of the row. If one side is closer to the peak than the other, snap lines for all the remaining rows, making the reveal on one side progressively larger until you make up the difference. Don’t adjust any row by more than 3/16 in.
Every shingle brand has its own nailing pattern requirement. The pitch of your roof and the wind conditions in your area also affect how many nails to use and where. Most shingles require four to six nails, about 1 in. in from each side and placed so they get covered at least 1 in. by the shingle above them. The nails should penetrate the decking at least 3/4 in. Most pros use 1-1/4-in. zinc-coated roofing nails.
Nail straight into the shingle, and adjust the setting on your gun or the pressure on your compressor so the nails pull the shingle tight to the decking but stay flush with the surface. Keep a hammer close at hand to take care of nails that get only partially driven in. And never use staples! Even if a buddy has an old roofing stapler with free staples, politely decline. Staples don’t have the holding power of nails; they tend to rust out before the shingles go bad; and most manufacturers don’t allow staples, so you’ll void the warranty.
When you reach the ridge, use the same technique as you did with the felt paper: Wrap the first side over the top, and then wrap the second side over the first. Cut the shingles to size with a utility knife fitted with hook blades. Run the shingles long over hip ridges and rakes, and in the valleys. When you’re all done installing the shingles, snap lines and trim the shingles to the line
Architectural vs. Three-Tab Shingles
The shingles shown here are commonly called “architectural.” Some architectural shingles are partially laminated (two layers), and others are fully laminated, which gives them more of a textured look, similar to wood shakes. Because of the extra material, architectural shingles are heavier. Some can handle winds up to 150 mph, which is twice the wind rating of many three-tab shingles.
Architectural shingles are easier to install because you don’t have to worry about lining up the tabs vertically. The life span depends on the quality of the shingle. Both styles are available with 25-year and 30-year warranties. Expect to pay about 15 to 20 percent more for standard architectural shingles than for standard three-tabs.
Whichever you choose, make sure all the bundles have the same “lot” number on the packaging. That means they were all made in the same batch or run. Shingle color can vary noticeably from one batch to another.
Install step and dormer flashing
It’s possible to reuse existing step flashing and dormer flashing, but the best way to get a watertight seal is to tear off the siding in those areas and install new flashing. Start by running self-stick underlayment at least 6 in. up onto the walls. This provides an additional barrier if water does get past the flashing. Cover the front wall first and then work your way up the side wall. Overlap the sidewall underlayment around the corner onto the front wall about 1 in. or so.
Install the shingles right up to the front wall. Cut a couple of inches off the vertical portion of the dormer flashing, and run the horizontal portion past the side wall that same distance. Nail the dormer flashing to both the wall and the shingles.
Make a 1- to 2-in. cut with a tin snips at the bend in the first step flashing. Run a bead of sealant on the corner edge of the dormer flashing, and then run that step flashing past the dormer flashing the same distance you made your cut. Bend the step flashing around the corner onto the dormer flashing with your hammer.
Install your next row of shingles over that first step flashing, then cover that row with a step flashing, and so on. Nail the step flashing to the wall toward the top of the flashing at the end that’s closer to the peak, so the next step flashing in line will cover the nail. Don’t nail them down through the shingles. For information about flashing around chimneys, see Installing Chimney Flashing.
Step and Dormer Flashing
Weave the step flashing and the roof shingles together so that water can’t get under the shingles. Pay careful attention to the corner details.
Make plumbing vents leakproof
Install a layer of underlayment around vent pipes and caulk with roof sealant before shingling. Run shingles halfway past vents before installing vent flashing.
Installing shingles around attic vents, plumbing vent stacks and furnace stacks is basically the same process. The main difference is that you’ll install a piece of self-stick underlayment around all the stacks, but you just need to roll the felt paper over the vent holes and cut out the holes. When installing the felt paper over a stack, it’s OK to make an oversize hole. But before you roll out the row of paper above the stack, cut a 2- or 3-ft. section of self-stick underlayment, cut a hole in it slightly smaller than the diameter of the stack, and slide it over the stack. Make sure the piece is large enough so that the next row of felt paper overlaps the top at least a couple of inches (Photo 12). Caulk around the pipe when you’re done.
Install the shingles up and halfway past the vent hole or stack. Next, install your vent or stack flashing over that row of shingles (Photo 13). Nail it down with your roofing gun, top and bottom.
Seal the top nail holes and continue on up with your shingles. Trim the shingles with your utility knife (Photo 14). Some vent and stack flashing is covered in protective plastic, which will have to be removed.
If you’re installing the type of stack flashing with a rubber boot that seals around the pipe, spray-paint the pipe a similar color as your roof. You can also paint electrical masts and other projections (before installing shingles). This simple step adds a lot to the finished look of your roof.
To find out if you have proper attic ventilation, search attic ventilation calculator (GAF has one version). Just type in the dimensions of your attic to learn how many vents you need. If you don’t have adequate ventilation, cut in more holes with a circular saw
Snap chalk lines to help keep the row of ridge cap shingles straight. Install the ridge cap so the prevailing winds blow over the overlap seams, not into them.
Once all your shingles are installed, you’ll need to cover (cap) the ridge (and hip ridges if you have a hip roof). The top ridge cap shingles will overlap the hip ridge cap, so start with the hips. Snap a couple of guide lines just a little inside the perimeter of the ridge so the lines get covered up when you’re done. Nail each shingle on both sides about 1 in. above the overlap seam (Photo 16). Store-bought architectural-style ridge caps are often two layers thick, to match the look of the shingles. You may need longer nails to fasten the ridge because of all the extra layers of shingles.
Install the top ridge cap so the prevailing winds blow over the overlaps rather than into them. If wind isn’t an issue, start at either side, or start at both sides and end in the middle. Rip the top half off the last ridge cap shingle, and nail through the face of it with two nails on the ends of each side.
Seal it up
Before you put your ladder away, sweep all the debris off the roof, and then seal all the exposed nails on your vents and stack flashing. If you used stack flashing that has the rubber boot, seal the area where rubber meets the pipe. Avoid silicone (it won’t hold up) and asphalt-based sealants (they tend to dry out when exposed to direct sunlight). Our roofers prefer a product called Lexelavailable through our affiliation with Amazon.com. It’s clear like silicone, sticky as model glue and lasts for years. And remember, these areas you sealed require maintenance—they should be inspected every few years.
Required Tools for this house to roof a house Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY how to roof a house project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
You’ll also need scaffolding, a roofing nailer and work gloves.
Required Materials for this how to roof a house Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.
#15 or #30 Felt underlayment
Self-adhesive waterproof underlayment (“ice and water shield”)
Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is the leading siding installation company in Northern Virginia. And as the leading siding contractor it brings us great pride to do a good job on every residential and commercial property. Most of our residential and commercial siding replacement contractors have over 10 years in the siding business. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology is a leader in the commercial and residential siding replacement business.
Homeowners spend a lot of time and money on the interior of their homes. From redecorating to renovating entire rooms, much thought is put into what goes on inside our homes. What about the exterior? Is it time for a face lift to gain more curb appeal? And if so, when is the best time of year for installing new siding?
Considerations for choosing the best siding material
First off, the best time of year to install new siding depends on what type of material you’re using. Vinyl is an exceedingly popular choice of material for home siding, but it expands in the heat of the summer and contracts in the cold winter months. For this reason, the moderate temperatures of fall are ideal for installing vinyl.
When vinyl is installed during the summer and nailed too tight, it could crack or buckle as the temperatures cool and the material contracts. Wood has similar contracting properties in extreme temperatures, which makes it a good candidate for installation during the fall.
If you’ve missed the fall window and are now looking to spring for the project, be sure to call your siding contractor now because the calendar for spring siding jobs is likely filling up fast.
Is fiber cement siding ideal for cold weather climates?
Fiber cement siding is also a popular material for siding as it has excellent durability and insulation properties. James Hardie makes a fiber cement siding that is engineered for climate, and the company looks at eight climatic variables that affect the performance of siding over time to manufacture their products.
For example, James Hardie makes a particular type of siding that is great for areas where freezing temperatures, snow and ice are the norm. They also make a siding that is ideal for areas where the heavy rainfall is common and humidity is high, but where conditions can also become hot and dry.
Fiber cement materials have obvious advantages as a material for siding, but it’s not without its limitations where installation is involved; fiber cement siding must be kept dry prior to installation, which means installation jobs during rainy seasons should be avoided. The following may occur if the fiber cement becomes saturated:
Difficulty in handling as the water will increase the material’s weight and flexibility.
Soluble salts, generally white in color, will cause staining.
Open joints due to shrinkage can also occur when installed wet, as joints between planks open up when dry.
Prices are lower in the fall
Some homeowners gun for a fall siding project because they find better prices from contractors who might see their jobs drop off as the weather cools. Siding contractors are often busiest during the summer, perhaps even turning down jobs as they are so plentiful, which means there will be little to no chance of seeing discounts from contractors. However, to keep their crew in work during the colder months, they’ll be more willing, in some cases, to lower their prices to pull in more clients. Manufacturers are also more willing to discount prices on their siding products during non-peak times.
Be sure to get multiple quotes on the project and ask for references. You need your siding contractor to have plenty of experience and install your siding perfectly so it will protect your home longer.
Entrust your siding installation to the experts
At Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology, we’ve installed everything from vinyl to cedar planks to James Hardie siding and everything in between. We have years of experience and use highly trained individuals to install siding for our clients. We haven’t had a single unhappy customer in more than 15 years, so call us today and let’s discuss siding options for your home.
There’s a lot of things that as a roofer or roofing company should know. We call them roofing 101, and if you’re a Loudoun and Fairfax resident, we suggest you go over these things. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology offers free estimates and inspections. We’re in the business of sharing knowledge and making sure that we make our clients happy.
ROOF SYSTEM COMPONENTS
All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components:
Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.
Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to roof rafters to cover a house or building.
Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.
Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system’s various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.
Drainage: a roof system’s design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.
CHOOSING A ROOF SYSTEM
There are a number of things to consider when selecting a new roof system. Of course, cost and durability head the list, but aesthetics and architectural style are important, too. The right roof system for your home or building is one that balances these five considerations. The following roofing products commonly are used for steep-slope structures.
Asphalt shingles possess an overwhelming share of the U.S. steep-slope roofing market and can be reinforced with organic or fiberglass materials. Although asphalt shingles reinforced with organic felts have been around much longer, fiberglass-reinforced products now dominate the market.
Organic shingles consist of a cellulose-fiber (i.e., wood) base that is saturated with asphalt and coated with colored mineral granules.
Fiberglass shingles consist of a fiberglass mat, top-and-bottom layers of asphalt, and mineral granules.
Asphalt shingles’ fire resistances, like most other roofing materials, are categorized by Class A, B or C. Class A signifies the most fire-resistant; Classes B and C denote less fire resistance. Generally, most fiberglass shingles have Class A fire ratings, and most organic shingles have Class C ratings.
A shingle’s reinforcement has little effect on its appearance. Organic and fiberglass products are available in laminated (architectural) grades that offer a textured appearance. Zinc or copper-coated ceramic granules also can be applied to organic or fiberglass products to protect against algae attack, a common problem in warm, humid parts of the United States. Both types of shingles also are available in a variety of colors.
Regardless of their reinforcing type and appearance, asphalt shingles’ physical characteristics vary significantly. When installing asphalt shingles, NRCA recommends use of shingles that comply with American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standards-ASTM D 225 for organic shingles and ASTM D 3462 for fiberglass shingles. These standards govern the composition and physical properties of asphalt shingles; not all asphalt shingles on the market comply with these standards. If a shingle product complies with one of these standards, it is typically noted in the manufacturer’s product literature and on the package wrapper.
Wood shingles and shakes are made from cedar, redwood, southern pine and other woods; their natural look is popular in California, the Northwest and parts of the Midwest. Wood shingles are machinesawn; shakes are handmade and rougher looking. A point to consider: Some local building codes limit the use of wood shingles and shakes because of concerns about fire resistance. Many wood shingles and shakes only have Class C fire ratings or no ratings at all. However, Class A fire ratings are available for certain wood shingle products that incorporate a factory-applied, fire-resistant treatment.
Tile—clay or concrete—is a durable roofing material. Mission and Spanish-style round-topped tiles are used widely in the Southwest and Florida, and flat styles also are available to create French and English looks. Tile is available in a variety of colors and finishes. Tile is heavy. If you are replacing another type of roof system with tile, you will need to verify that the structure can support the load.
Slate is quarried in the United States in Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia. It is available in different colors and grades, depending on its origin. Considered virtually indestructible, it is, however, more expensive than other roofing materials. In addition, its application requires special skill and experience. Many old homes, especially in the Northeast, still are protected by this long-lasting roofing material.
Metal, primarily thought of as a low-slope roofing material, has been found to be a roofing alternative for home and building owners with steep-slope roofs. There are two types of metal roofing products: panels and shingles. Numerous metal panel shapes and configurations exist. Metal shingles typically are intended to simulate traditional roof coverings, such as wood shakes, shingles and tile. Apart from metal roofing’s longevity, metal shingles are relatively lightweight, have a greater resistance to adverse weather and can be aesthetically pleasing. Some have Class A fire ratings.
Synthetic roofing products simulate various traditional roof coverings, such as slate and wood shingles and shakes. However, they do not necessarily have the same properties.
Before making a buying decision, NRCA recommends that you look at full-size samples of a proposed product, as well as manufacturers’ brochures. It also is a good idea to visit a building that is roofed with a particular product.
VENTILATION AND INSULATION ARE KEY
One of the most critical factors in roof system durability is proper ventilation. Without it, heat and moisture build up in an attic area and combine to cause rafters and sheathing to rot, shingles to buckle, and insulation to lose its effectiveness.
Therefore, it is important never to block off sources of roof ventilation, such as louvers, ridge vents or soffit vents, even in winter. Proper attic ventilation will help prevent structural damage caused by moisture, increase roofing material life, reduce energy consumption and enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic.
In addition to the free flow of air, insulation plays a key role in proper attic ventilation. An ideal attic has:
A gap-free layer of insulation on the attic floor to protect the house below from heat gain or loss.
A vapor retarder under the insulation and next to the ceiling to stop moisture from rising into the attic.
Enough open, vented spaces to allow air to pass in and out freely.
A minimum of 1 inch between the insulation and roof sheathing.
The requirements for proper attic ventilation may vary greatly, depending on the part of the United States in which a home or building is located, as well as the structure’s conditions, such as exposure to the sun, shade and atmospheric humidity. Nevertheless, the general ventilation formula is based on the length and width of the attic. NRCA recommends a minimum of 1 square foot of free vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor—with vents placed proportionately at the eaves (e.g., soffits) and at or near the ridge.
EVEN ROOFS HAVE ENEMIES
A roof system’s performance is affected by numerous factors. Knowing about the following will help you make informed roof system buying decisions:
Sun: Heat and ultraviolet rays cause roofing materials to deteriorate over time. Deterioration can occur faster on the sides facing west or south.
Rain: When water gets underneath shingles, shakes or other roofing materials, it can work its way to the roof deck and cause the roof structure to rot. Extra moisture encourages mildew and rot elsewhere in a house, including walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems.
Wind: High winds can lift shingles’ edges (or other roofing materials) and force water and debris underneath them. Extremely high winds can cause extensive damage.
Snow and ice: Melting snow often refreezes at a roof’s overhang where the surface is cooler, forming an ice dam. This blocks proper drainage into the gutter. Water backs up under the shingles (or other roofing materials) and seeps into the interior. During the early melt stages, gutters and downspouts can be the first to fill with ice and be damaged beyond repair or even torn off a house or building.
Condensation: Condensation can result from the buildup of relatively warm, moisture-laden air. Moisture in a poorly ventilated attic promotes decay of wood sheathing and rafters, possibly destroying a roof structure. Sufficient attic ventilation can be achieved by installing larger or additional vents and will help alleviate problems because the attic air temperature will be closer to the outside air temperature.
Moss and algae: Moss can grow on moist wood shingles and shakes. Once it grows, moss holds even more moisture to a roof system’s surface, causing rot. In addition, moss roots also can work their way into a wood deck and structure. Algae also grows in damp, shaded areas on wood or asphalt shingle roof systems. Besides creating a black-green stain, algae can retain moisture, causing rot and deterioration. Trees and bushes should be trimmed away from homes and buildings to eliminate damp, shaded areas, and gutters should be kept clean to ensure good drainage.
Trees and leaves: Tree branches touching a roof will scratch and gouge roofing materials when the branches are blown by the wind. Falling branches from overhanging trees can damage, or even puncture, shingles and other roofing materials. Leaves on a roof system’s surface retain moisture and cause rot, and leaves in the gutters block drainage.
Missing or torn shingles: The key to a roof system’s effectiveness is complete protection. When shingles are missing or torn off, a roof structure and home or building interior are vulnerable to water damage and rot. The problem is likely to spread-nearby shingles also are ripped easily or blown away. Missing or torn shingles should be replaced as soon as possible.
Shingle deterioration: When shingles are old and worn out, they curl, split and lose their waterproofing effectiveness. Weakened shingles easily are blown off, torn or lifted by wind gusts. The end result is structural rot and interior damage. A deteriorated roof system only gets worse with time-it should be replaced as soon as possible.
Flashing deterioration: Many apparent roof leaks really are flashing leaks. Without good, tight flashings around chimneys, vents, skylights and wall/roof junctions, water can enter a home or building and cause damage to walls, ceilings, insulation and electrical systems. Flashings should be checked as part of a biannual roof inspection and gutter cleaning.
TERMS YOU SHOULD KNOW
Deck/sheathing: The surface, usually plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), to which roofing materials are applied.
Dormer: A small structure projecting from a sloped roof, usually with a window.
Drip edge: An L-shaped strip (usually metal) installed along roof edges to allow water run off to drip clear of the deck, eaves and siding.
Eave: The horizontal lower edge of a sloped roof.
Fascia: A flat board, band or face located at a cornice’s outer edge.
Felt/underlayment: A sheet of asphalt-saturated material (often called tar paper) used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof deck.
Fire rating: System for classifying the fire resistances of various materials. Roofing materials are rated Class A, B or C, with Class A materials having the highest resistance to fire originating outside the structure.
Flashing: Pieces of metal used to prevent the seepage of water around any intersection or projection in a roof system, such as vent pipes, chimneys, valleys and joints at vertical walls.
Louvers: Slatted devices installed in a gable or soffit (the underside of eaves) to ventilate the space below a roof deck and equalize air temperature and moisture.
Oriented strand board (OSB): Roof deck panels (4 by 8 feet) made of narrow bits of wood, installed lengthwise and crosswise in layers, and held together with a resin glue. OSB often is used as a substitute for plywood sheets.
Penetrations: Vents, pipes, stacks, chimneys-anything that penetrates a roof deck.
Rafters: The supporting framing to which a roof deck is attached.
Rake: The inclined edge of a roof over a wall.
Ridge: The top edge of two intersecting sloping roof surfaces.
Sheathing: The boards or sheet materials that are fastened to rafters to cover a house or building.
Slope: Measured by rise in inches for each 12 inches of horizontal run: A roof with a 4-in-12 slope rises 4 inches for every foot of horizontal distance.
Square: The common measurement for roof area. One square is 100 square feet (10 by 10 feet).
Truss: Engineered components that supplement rafters in many newer homes and buildings. Trusses are designed for specific applications and cannot be cut or altered.
Valley: The angle formed at the intersection of two sloping roof surfaces.
Vapor retarder: A material designed to restrict the passage of water vapor through a roof system or wall.
In Loudoun and Fairfax, the homes are extremely beautiful and pricey, and the materials that cover many of them homes are costly as well. Many people are asking “What are the price of a new roof?”. Well that depends on who you asking that question and that’s because not all companies are created equal. Mid Atlantic Construction and Technology contractors are obligated to give you market value and not to increase the price of a roof.
Straight Off the Bat: It needs to be stated that not all roofs are made the same and not all roofers charge the same prices. That being said, most roofing contractors (and many insurance companies) will price their roof replacement services within $3.50 to $5.50 per square foot or $350 to $550 per square of architectural shingles installed. A square is equal to 100 square feet of roof surface. An average roof size in the US is about 1,700 square feet.
Based on the above, you can expect to pay between $6,000 and $9,350 for a typical 1,700-square foot (17 squares) roof. For comparison, a 3,000-square foot (30 squares) roof on a larger house with a garage will cost between $10,500 and $16,500 for a basic 30-year shingle roof fully installed.
The above price range will normally include the removal and disposal of up to two layers of old shingles, and installation of new underlayment and ice-and-water shield at the eaves and valleys of the roof, in accordance with the local building code requirements. This includes any necessary local building permit expenses.
Note on a Wider Pricing Range: Depending on the type and overall complexity of the roof (number of floors/levels, number of skylights, chimneys, and dormers, ease of access, and overall roof difficulty), choice of shingles, your home’s geographic location, and the contractor or weekend warrior you choose to hire, your total average cost for a composition shingles roof could range from as low as $2.75 to as high as $7.50 per square foot or $275 to $750 per square installed.
There will always be significant variations in quoted roof prices, depending on the contractor you choose to hire and your home’s location. For instance, roof prices in the deep South (think South Carolina, Alabama, Georgia, and most of Louisiana) will generally be significantly lower (as low as $2.50 to $3.50 per sq. ft. installed) compared to prices charged in the North East or on the West Coast (which can be as high as $5.00 to $7.50 per sq. ft.).
Did you know? A typical ranch style or four-square single family house in the US will have a roof area of about 15 to 20 squares. — On the low-end, you can expect to pay anywhere from $5,000 to $8,000 for a simple roof replacement job on a typical four-square or ranch style house, while on the high-end, your total cost could range from $9,000 to $15,000 (or even more in some cases) for a more difficult installation, premium materials, and comprehensive workmanship warranty.
Why is there such a Wide Pricing Range?
On the low-end, you may have roofers underbidding their jobs because they are either desperate for work or they happen to work on volume with razor-thin margins.
For example, a contractor that is just starting out may be more willing to complete a roofing job for less than a more established company would. There are also smaller companies with no office and little overhead that can afford to charge less for the job and still be profitable.
Note: A low bid for a roofing job (such as a bid that is significantly less than $2.50 per sq. ft. or $250 per square) can also come from the so called weekend warriors or storm chasers working without any liability insurance and no worker’s comp, which could be a liability for the homeowner.
On the high-end of the price range, you have bids for fully-warrantied jobs from reputable exterior remodeling companies. — Keep in mind that a high price doesn’t always mean quality, especially if the contractor you hire is using sub-contractors to do the actual work. Subcontractors normally don’t get paid much, so they work on volume, which means that sometimes they may have to cut corners.
Many professional roofing contractors employ a “40% materials / 60% labor” as their costs-breakdown formula. Of course, this pricing structure is just a guideline not set in stone. Some contractors include their overhead in the cost of labor, while others calculate it separately. All roofers use “squares” to measure and estimate roofs. A square equals to 100 sq. ft. of the actual roof surface.
The cost of materials for a basic 3-tab, 25-year shingles could range anywhere from $150 to $200 per square for all the necessary materials. — In addition to composition shingles, materials may also include any necessary roofing felt/underlayment, ice-and-water shield, nails, ridge-vent, and roof flashing details such as valley, drip-edge, gable, and chimney flashing and caulk.
In some cases, the cost of materials may also include tarp, plywood, wood planks/boards, permitting, trash bags and ordering a dumpster.
With most professional — licensed & insured roofing contractors, the installation cost is usually about 60% of the total cost. Thus, a 3-tab composition shingle roof will cost an average of $350 to $450 per square to install.
The installation assumes a single story house such as ranch, cape, or colonial, with a hip and gable combination roof.
Most ranch type houses in the US, measure an average of 15 to 20 squares in terms of their actual roof surface, which translates to $6,725 to $9,000 for the very basic composition shingles roof installed, based on the average installed cost of $450 per square, with a typical 5-year workmanship warranty.
Any extra skylight and chimney flashing requirements will also likely increase the total cost. For instance, some contractors will charge an extra $200 per skylight or chimney flashing in addition to the cost for the rest of the work.
Did you know?
The 3-tab (25 year) shingle is the most basic and least expensive kind of roof shingles. Although, in some ways, 3-tab shingles are more difficult to install (despite being lighter in weight) than architectural shingles. — The installer has to make sure that all the tabs, rows and columns, comprised of the 3-tab shingles align properly in order to have straight lines and a nice looking shingle pattern on the 3-tab shingle roof.
Did you know? Proper alignment of shingles is not really a concern with architectural or dimensional shingles, which have a more random pattern.
You can expect to pay a bit more for a 30-year architectural (dimensional) shingles, which are a fair bit thicker (and hence longer lasting) than 3-tab shingles, and are more commonly installed by contractors who want to offer a better value to the homeowner.
With, architectural shingles, it will probably cost you $75 to $100 more per square to install compared to a 3-tab 25-year shingles. — This increase in price is greater than the difference in cost of materials between the 3-tab and 30-year architectural shingles, because most contractors will put a greater mark-up on a higher-end product compared to an entry-level product. The pricing increase is normally justified as a premium on the “higher quality of installation”. We’ll let you be the judge.
Thus, your total cost for a basic, single-story hip and gable roof on a ranch house could range anywhere from $7,850 to $11,000, depending on the actual size and complexity of the roof, the company you choose to hire, quality of installation, warranty details, your home’s geographic location, your negotiation skills, and other variables.
Did you know?
One thing you should keep in mind as a homeowner, is that no asphalt shingle roof will really last as long as 50 or even 30 years. That’s just a simple marketing gimmick used by the asphalt shingles manufacturers to get homeowners to pay the big bucks for their products backed by the so-called prorated warranty that is often not worth the paper it’s written on!
Just imagine how much, or rather how little, money you will actually be able to get some fifteen or twenty years down the road for a roof that fails due to manufacturing defects? Not much! Never mind the fact that it will be extremely difficult to prove the cause of a roof leak is actually tied to material defects and not labor errors.
Furthermore, the manufacturer would only be held responsible for replacing the materials that have actually failed, not the whole roof in its entirety. Not, only that, but the company responsible for the installation of your roof may no longer even be in business some 15 to 20 years down the road.